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Pre finished plywood drawers

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Forum topic by Shakerguy posted 10-23-2017 02:29 PM 898 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Shakerguy

17 posts in 1401 days


10-23-2017 02:29 PM

Howdy all, I have a problem. I want to make drawers with pre finished 1/2” plywood. I am using a Kreg Jig. I set the bit for 1/2” material and put in the spacer in my Kreg jig as per the instructions. I then drilled my pocket holes without a problem. However, when I drove in my first three course 1” screws, one of the screws delaminates the piece of ply it was going into. What’s up with that? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Lefty


9 replies so far

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jonah

1841 posts in 3443 days


#1 posted 10-23-2017 02:46 PM

It’s probably due to the plywood’s thickness not being a full half inch. Most “1/2 inch” plywood is actually 12mm thick, which is about 15/32 or 0.47”.

You can set the Kreg jig to a slightly shallower angle (one more notch on the stop) and you should be fine. Make sure to try on a piece of scrap first to make sure it doesn’t punch through.

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GR8HUNTER

4721 posts in 857 days


#2 posted 10-23-2017 03:10 PM

YEPP ^^^^^^^^^^ THEY CHEAT SOMETIMES make it only 11mm thick :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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Loren

10477 posts in 3792 days


#3 posted 10-23-2017 03:36 PM

You’re likely just too close to the edge. You
need a pilot hole and the jig doesn’t do that.

I’ve never pocket screwed a 1/2” drawer box,
partially out of concern this would happen.

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Rich

3651 posts in 734 days


#4 posted 10-23-2017 04:02 PM

Good advice above. If you can’t adjust the jig to make the screw depth shallower, you can grind the tip off the screws before you drive them. I wind up having to do that when I attach drawer slides to 1/2” plywood for my shop drawers. Even with the thickness of the slide material, the 1/2” screw still causes a bulge on the other side of the plywood.

Be careful grinding something small like that. I use vice grips for a secure hold.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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Loren

10477 posts in 3792 days


#5 posted 10-23-2017 04:47 PM

When I pocket screw frames I typically leave
a “horn” on the ends of the stiles and cut it
off after the screws are in. This is because
any wood that is screwed close to the edge
without a pilot hole might split. The extra
material of the horn prevents this.

If the horn is not feasible, I think driving the
screw a little, backing it off, driving a little
more and so forth may help to prevent
splitting.

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Shakerguy

17 posts in 1401 days


#6 posted 12-14-2017 10:11 PM

Thanks for all the input. I found that if I just drilled from what would be the outside of the box there was plenty of room for the school. And by placing the holes on what becomes the front edge of the drawer the holes get covered with the drawer front. Same thing with the back. The holes are on the back side of the back where they are not seen.

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Shakerguy

17 posts in 1401 days


#7 posted 12-14-2017 10:15 PM

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Shakerguy

17 posts in 1401 days


#8 posted 12-14-2017 10:19 PM

Oops. The photo posted sideways.
NoteTo Self: Always cut drawer pieces to final dimension prior to drilling pocket holes.

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Shakerguy

17 posts in 1401 days


#9 posted 12-14-2017 10:21 PM

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