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Ducting for Super Dust Deputy ---do I need 5" ducting?

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Forum topic by Sark posted 05-27-2018 07:05 PM 2389 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sark

82 posts in 563 days


05-27-2018 07:05 PM

I bought the 6” model of Super Dust Deputy, only to find out that the input port is really 5” not 6”. The port to the blower is 6”. Boy was I fooled! Should have read the specs, etc… Can’t return it.

Anyway, 5” ducting is not readily available in PVC. And the price quoted for 5” PVC is incredibly high since I guess not much is sold. And for the thin Schedule 20 used for drain pipe, the price is even higher. The highest price I’ve found is $14 per lineal foot!. But none of it is cheap.

I can buy Oneida 5” components in metal, but I much prefer PVC ducting because its ever so much easier to work with. And less expensive (depending). Don’t want to choke the air flow with 4” ducting.

What do you recommend? Use a 5” to 6” adapter and run 6” duct around the shop (my inclination). Any of you using the HVAC ducting available from Home Depot? What have you other SSD users done?


10 replies so far

View BobAnderton's profile

BobAnderton

283 posts in 2993 days


#1 posted 05-27-2018 07:34 PM

I would definitely run 6” duct, even if it restricts down to 5” going into the dust deputy. You are going to lose X inches of static pressure pulling air through your ducting, and you want to minimize how much that is, which means larger ID duct is better, as long as you’re maintaining sufficient airspeed to keep things moving.

You are going to lose a lot of static pressure due to the cyclone, and a lot more pulling through your ductwork. I don’t think the restriction of a 5 inch inlet to the cyclone will be that much of a factor. You’ll pull more air through 6” duct network feeding a 5 inch inlet cyclone than you would with 5” duct network feeding a 5” inlet cyclone. Plus the 6” sewer and drain PVC is cheap and standard.

You can model all the what-if scenarios for your setup options using Bill Pentz's excel static loss calculator , but I think the take-away is run 6” up to the cyclone (and 6” tool ports where possible) to minimize the static loss that occurs upstream of the cyclone.

-- Bob Anderton - Austin, TX - Nova 3000 lathe, Alaskan Mark III mill, Husqavarna Saw

View Woodmaster1's profile

Woodmaster1

1071 posts in 2790 days


#2 posted 05-27-2018 07:43 PM

I used a 5” to 4” reducer for the inlet and a 6” hose from the cyclone to the dust collector. Seems to work fine.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5798 posts in 3016 days


#3 posted 05-27-2018 08:43 PM

Well you didn’t say what your powerplant will be, so I can’t say for sure. If it’s a common 1.5 hp unit with 12 inch impeller, I’d use 5” mains and 4” drops. Use metal, it’s better in every respect. Install it with pop rivots and foil tape.

I special ordered my piping from Home Depot and Penn State. Wherever you get it, go with 26 gauge material or thicker. 26 gauge is working well for me.
Good luck.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View BroncoBrian's profile

BroncoBrian

847 posts in 2161 days


#4 posted 05-27-2018 09:02 PM

...What ^^^ said. ...or, you can use 1/2 inch PVC and poke holes in it. Plays like a flute when you are killing time.

-- A severed foot is the ultimate stocking stuffer.

View htl's profile

htl

4238 posts in 1362 days


#5 posted 05-27-2018 09:18 PM

The manual or their web site on this product doesn’t give any hints as to which way to go?
I’ll bet a search on YouTube would have some how2’s

-- An Index Of My Model making Blogs http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/116729

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1108 posts in 1742 days


#6 posted 05-27-2018 09:27 PM



I would definitely run 6” duct, even if it restricts down to 5” going into the dust deputy. You are going to lose X inches of static pressure pulling air through your ducting, and you want to minimize how much that is, which means larger ID duct is better, as long as you re maintaining sufficient airspeed to keep things moving.

You are going to lose a lot of static pressure due to the cyclone, and a lot more pulling through your ductwork. I don t think the restriction of a 5 inch inlet to the cyclone will be that much of a factor. You ll pull more air through 6” duct network feeding a 5 inch inlet cyclone than you would with 5” duct network feeding a 5” inlet cyclone. Plus the 6” sewer and drain PVC is cheap and standard.

You can model all the what-if scenarios for your setup options using Bill Pentz s excel static loss calculator , but I think the take-away is run 6” up to the cyclone (and 6” tool ports where possible) to minimize the static loss that occurs upstream of the cyclone.

- BobAnderton

Oneida said that going up is highly not recommended on the 5” port. Their XL is much larger to handle the 6” port for this reason.

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Rayne

1108 posts in 1742 days


#7 posted 05-27-2018 09:31 PM

Look around your local HVAC supplier, even wholesalers. They tend to carry 5” snaplock 26ga ducts for super cheap. I found one near me and they had every connection except the wye. I’m talking like $6-$7 for 5’ run each, under $5 for reducers, adjustable elbows, etc. I can’t be the only one who has found one that sells to the public. My entire setup in a full 20×20 garage was under $100, except on the wyes, but Amazon sells those for relatively cheap now.

View Sark's profile

Sark

82 posts in 563 days


#8 posted 05-27-2018 09:36 PM

I have 4 hp system for the blower. Actually 2 Grizzly 2 hp units connected in parallel. Got them cheap, and I’ll post a picture when I get it all up and running.

In my old shop, we used ClearVu cyclone with 5HP motor and 6” ducts. Worked great, except amazingly loud. Pentz recommended using PVC so that’s what we did. PintoDelux, you said that metal is better in every respect, wondering if you would mind sharing why you think so. Right now, I’m looking for a cost effective way of putting it all together. It doesn’t have to be plastic. its just what I’m most familiar with.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5798 posts in 3016 days


#9 posted 05-28-2018 12:54 AM

Hey Sark,
Plastic piping generates static. It is true of PVC and flex hose alike. It will discharge an annoying static shock as you use your tools.

Everyone says that metal ductwork is more expensive, but when I priced everything out, metal was actually slightly cheaper. The trick is to get what you can from a big box (special order) or HVAC supplier. Only use Oneida for the specialty fittings.

You are not limited to 4” or 6” when you use metal.

PVC install my be easier, but metal isn’t hard either.

Good luck with your decision.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Mike_D_S's profile

Mike_D_S

496 posts in 2417 days


#10 posted 05-28-2018 04:33 AM

Rayne’s suggestion is a good one. The local guy I got some ducting from even could get the Wye’s with the correct crimping pattern for suction as well for just a few extra dollars.

Mike

-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

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