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Where are you getting your dovetail saws sharpened?

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Forum topic by bondogaposis posted 10-10-2018 06:29 PM 965 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bondogaposis

4992 posts in 2497 days


10-10-2018 06:29 PM

Topic tags/keywords: resource sharpening

My local sharp shop won’t touch my 20 tpi saws, I have 2 of them that are dull.

-- Bondo Gaposis


15 replies so far

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Andre

2063 posts in 1952 days


#1 posted 10-10-2018 08:08 PM

Buy a file (or 3) make a saw vise and touch them up? I found an old Stanley Saw vise (6”) on Ebay that is great for DT Saws. Practiced on some cheap Crown saws and happy with the results.

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View mramseyISU's profile

mramseyISU

549 posts in 1691 days


#2 posted 10-10-2018 08:12 PM

Bad Axe will do it but you won’t get it back for a few weeks.

-- Trust me I'm an engineer.

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JayT

5877 posts in 2357 days


#3 posted 10-10-2018 08:41 PM

No one around here sharpens, so I’m doing my own instead of sending them off. Not great at it, yet, but each one is a little better than the last and all have cut better than when they were dull.

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

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chriscarter

3 posts in 237 days


#4 posted 10-10-2018 09:06 PM

This is why so many people say not to bother with 20tpi saws – because they are very difficult to sharpen. Even if you successfully sharpen it, your eyes will hurt and you’ll have a headache. Honestly, I’m not sure what the purpose of a 20tpi dovetail saw is. There is nothing a 20tpi saw can do that a 15tpi dovetail saw can’t do. Unless you are cutting dovetails in 1/16th inch stock.

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MrRon

5086 posts in 3389 days


#5 posted 10-10-2018 09:15 PM

When sharpening your own saws, don’t keep using the same triangular file over and over. They do get dull. You should be able to get 3 filings per file before it gets too dull to do a good job. The way to sharpen a saw is to take strokes with the file using moderate pressure (don’t bear down so much) and take the same number of strokes per tooth. Keep the saw vise clamping jaws no more that 1/16” below the gullets. The same goes for chain saw chains. Of course you must joint the teeth with a grinding stone before filing. Practice, practice, practice.

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therealSteveN

1410 posts in 720 days


#6 posted 10-10-2018 11:10 PM

Crazy as it may sound but I’ve swapped to WoodCraft for all my sharpening. I’m sure it matters where you are. In my case the Dayton store owner Allen has arranged for a guy to do pick up and delivery at the store, and “the guy” happens to be really good at making edges sharp. For me it’s a 2fer, I get sharp edges for less than sending them away to “specialists” and I am supporting a close by Brick and Mortar so that I can continue to have this guy sharpen my edges. Win Win

I had him do my mower blades this Spring. On mine they are carbide tipped, On LOML’s they are standard blades, both were crazy sharp. 6 blades total (3 each mower) 22 bux. Came back dead balanced, and just the correct amount of sharp, with a perfect angle of cut. Now it’s “Off with their heads” instead of beat them on top of the head until they look shorter…...

-- Think safe, be safe

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bandit571

21290 posts in 2829 days


#7 posted 10-10-2018 11:21 PM

How far from Huber heights is it? Was sending mine over to Marysville….but, I think 11ppi is about his limit.

$0.60/inch of blade length….

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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summerfi

3999 posts in 1833 days


#8 posted 10-10-2018 11:29 PM

Bondo, I’m only 30 miles from you and I sharpen saws. 20 tpi is a challenge though. I’ve done 20, but 16 is much more reasonable.

-- Bob, Missoula, MT -- Rocky Mountain Saw Works http://www.rmsaws.com/p/about-us.html

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4992 posts in 2497 days


#9 posted 10-11-2018 02:47 AM

Thanks for the replies, lots of good information. What kind of file would I need and where would I get saw files?
Summerfi, thanks for the offer and I may take you up on it. Would it be possible to refile them at 16 tpi ?

-- Bondo Gaposis

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5086 posts in 3389 days


#10 posted 10-11-2018 03:14 AM



Thanks for the replies, lots of good information. What kind of file would I need and where would I get saw files?
Summerfi, thanks for the offer and I may take you up on it. Would it be possible to refile them at 16 tpi ?

- bondogaposis


You have to punch out all the old teeth and put all new teeth on it. That requires a machine called a retoother.

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summerfi

3999 posts in 1833 days


#11 posted 10-11-2018 03:30 AM

Bondo, for anything above about a 13 ppi you need a high quality triangular needle file. Valorbe (Swiss) and Corradi (Italian) are both good choices. You can get Valorbe on ebay. Corradi must be ordered from the factory in Italy, but I actually like them a little better.

MrRon is correct that the saws would need to be retoothed to 16 ppi, but I do it by hand. First you have to joint off all the old teeth and start over. Retoothing by hand, especially on small saws, is not terribly hard to do if you are experienced at saw sharpening.

If you want to learn to sharpen yourself, the best resource I know of is LJ Brit’s (Andy) video. It is best to learn on about an 8 ppi though, as it’s harder to see what you’re doing on tiny teeth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-_MF2Mnxwc

-- Bob, Missoula, MT -- Rocky Mountain Saw Works http://www.rmsaws.com/p/about-us.html

View Andre's profile

Andre

2063 posts in 1952 days


#12 posted 10-11-2018 06:11 AM

I believe the Italian Needle Files from LV are made by Corradi? What I have been using so far.
See the price almost doubled from last time I bought some, so much for the global economy and free trade?

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

1410 posts in 720 days


#13 posted 10-11-2018 07:51 AM


How far from Huber heights is it? Was sending mine over to Marysville….but, I think 11ppi is about his limit.

$0.60/inch of blade length….

- bandit571

From HH it’s exactly the other end of 675, it’s a few miles before the terminal end into 75, you would get off at the second Far Hills exit, from there 1/2 mile.

Bandit here is their link I want to say it’s still pick up, and send out on Wednesday around 11AM, but there was some talk about maybe changing days. So far everything I have had done was back the next week. Either he doesn’t take vacation, or I have never hit it.

I think they can give basic pricing on the phone. For me the convenience and the nice edges I have been getting don’t make it a penny pinching thing, it just works. That said I’m about 12 miles by road travel to get there. From your area, it’s still a drive, I always say about your place, you just can’t get there from here. Seems it takes a lot longer to get there, than it is miles distant. I suppose it would depend on your route to Marysville as to which seemed the better drive.

Because I am over there a lot, I’ve never asked about sending to them via mail, UPS, etc. I imagine they could do something with that.

-- Think safe, be safe

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bandit571

21290 posts in 2829 days


#14 posted 10-12-2018 09:43 PM

Not sure IF he is still doing saws…wife has health issues….but:

The Cutting Edge….on Claibourne Rd. off of St. Rt. 347 About a third of the way from hitting St Rt 4…..I cross St Rt 31. I can then come back and take 31 south to Marysville. Have to time it just right…Honda Traffic is something fierce…...You drop the saws, or whatever else needs sharpened, at his barn….he will call when they are done.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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TheFridge

10332 posts in 1632 days


#15 posted 10-13-2018 02:14 AM

What I’ve used for some 18 ppi ish saws. Same thing bob and others recommended

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GLARDON-VALLORBE-SWISS-NEEDLE-FILE-3-SQUARE-18cm-Cuts-00-0-1-2-3-4-LA2407/130825617409?hash=item1e75d08001:m:m3Ydjk01yNgsssRklmHQaGQ

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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